How much will it cost?
We ask that you send a money order along with your carbs for the base
fee of $100 per body ($150 for single body/dual throat like on mid 80's GS
fours, and KZ1300's) and the $30 S/H/Insurance fee (for US customers). This shows commitment on your end and we will move forward with the teardown and quote. All funds MUST be in US Dollars.
After receipt of your carbs they will be torn down, diagnosed and
quoted. You will be contacted with a quote for approval of any additional
parts or services needed. Upon approval you
will need to send final payment either via credit card or you may
send a check, money order, or cashiers check.
Should
you decide to decline our services after quoting you will be refunded the appropriate amout after
covering our labor and shipping/handling fees.
How long will it take?
Typically it takes a month from the time we receive payment for the parts till the time
you get your carbs back. In peak season we get pretty backed up so it may be a while before your carbs hit the bench for tear down.
How do I ship my carbs to you?
Drain gas, wrap in plastic garbage bag and tape it up. Put in bag surrounded
with at least 2" of foam or peanuts. We are not responsible for bent or
broken parts due to poor shipping from you.
When and how do I pay you?
We accept Postal Money Orders on the spot, Personal checks but wait for them
to clear. And we accept Master Card and Visa for
credit card payable online, email, or fax.
What if I have a problem with the carbs after installation?
You must be sure your fuel system is clean before reinstallation of the
carbs. Any contamination of the tank, petcocks, and fuel lines can contaminate
your new clean carbs and aid the float valves in sticking open, flooding the
carbs, poor running, and fuel leakage. We have also intermittenly experienced float needles sticking in shipping from the shipper handling the carbs roughly and jambing the needles into the seats. You could either check the float needle for free movement prior to assembly or install it and hope the bowl does not overflow. Most of the time there is no problem.
Is there a warranty?
All of our workmanship in warranted. We warranty our work for 30 days from
the shipping date. Should you have any problem with the carbs (provided you
cleaned your fuel system appropriately) send them back for repair as necessary.
Carbs with evidence of dirt from a dirty fuel system that are sent back for
warranty will be charged the shop labor rate plus the standard shipping and
handling fee. We go through an exhaustive diagnostic process to insure that
your carbs are ready for installation when you get them back. If you do have
to send them back please email us first to discuss the details.
I don't
have stock air supply or exhaust system. Will my carbs come back adjusted
for just right for my bike's setup?
All of our documentation
shows us the original jetting setup for your bike. With every change in
intake and exhaust systems the jetting is upset for the volume of air
that is fed by the intake and, or the flow or backpressure of the
exhaust system.
When this balance is upset it
is necessary to rejet the carbs. You may send us your carbs and they are
already jetted but need to be cleaned. We check your jetting against
stock specs, and if jets need to be replaced they are replaced with the same size as found in the carb. If a jet was drilled we will not have a way of catching that detail and would be putting back the original size jet as marked and not as modified. We ask that if you wish to change your jetting we can do that on the bench at no charge based on the rules of thumb. Or we can rejet to original
specs.
We are not responsible for
incorrect jetting on your machine. Jetting is done with the bike on
a dynamometer and is a lengthy adjustment process until the ideal
settings are found. There are too many uncontrollable variables to be able to do that on the bench. Take a look at the Rules of Thumb, and Throttle Chop Method for
more info.
I have a YICS equipped Yamaha and cant sync my carbs properly. What do I do?
Buy one
here.
How do I remove/reinstall the carbs. There is no room.
Your carbs ARE designed to be reinstalled. The OEM air box (though a tight
fit) can be reinstalled. Click here for
information on tricks of reassembly.
What do I need to do after I receive my carbs back.
Install, Set idle, Synchronize, Idle drop.
To
ensure perfect intake system tuning you will of course need to synchronize the
carbs, set the idle and fuel screw settings (idle drop). But also to reach
PERFECTION don't forget valve adjustment. If you have a tight intake valve it
may look like a carb problem as you will not be getting the amount of fuel that
is designed to go in there per stroke.
So check valves first,
Install the carbs,
Warm
up the bike,
Set the idle to 1000 rpms,
sync carbs,
set fuel/air screws, (This is called an "Idle Drop")
reset idle,
resynchronize carbs,
Reassemble bike,
RIDE!!!!
Either bring the bike to the shop or buy a set of carb stix,
or guages from us. When you get your carbs back from us the synchronization
is eyeballed but that is all, though they should be close. You should still sync them.
To sync them you need to remove the tank and set it on the seat backwards or
use a remote tank like this
one. Be sure
the engine is good and warm at this point. Reattach the opposite petcocks to
fuel hoses is you have two petcocks. Turn the petcock/s to prime and attach the hoses of the carb stix to the
nipples on the head's intake manifold. These nipples on the outboard cylinders
go to the small hoses on the petcock (if it's a vacuum petcock) and the inner
cylinders have a cap on them usually. Remove the caps but do not forget to
reattach it when you are done. Air cooled bikes benefit by putting a fan in
front of the engine.
With it set up now start the engine and DO NOT EVER rev the engine using the
mercury stix or the mercury may get sucked into the intake of the engine (mercury sticks are no longer available as they were made in California and there is a law now that mercury can not be shipped. For
this reason we like the guage style tools. But it is ok
till about 2,000 rpms. You will see what happens when you start the engine.
Now with the engine idling at 1000 rpms or so you will see that each cylinder is
pulling some inches of syncronizer fluid according to the gauge on the stix. You need to get
all cylinders the same. Adjust the screw between #1 & #2 cylinder to
balance those 2 and the same with the screw between #3 & #4 to balance
those 2 as well, then the inner set, and so on. When you are done and they are
balanced check idle and drop or raise it back to 1000 rpms. Notice how quiet it
is inside the right crankcase cover now. Smooth as silk. This smoothed out the
jerky tension the crank was putting on the clutch from the engines unbalance.
Now you need to check to be sure the fuel or air screws are set at their
optimums. The fuel screw is located in front of the throttle slide on the
engine side, air screws are on the air filter side. Doing one screw at a time
screw IN the screw till the engine slows. Start counting turns while turning
the screw out till the engine speed raises and then goes back down to where it
was when you stopped screwing it in. Now divide those counted turns by 2 and
screw t back IN till you get to that perfect spot. Repeat on all the other
cylinders.
Now check the idle speed again as it may have changed, and then check
the carb stix one last time. Your carbs are now PERFECTLY tuned and can
be no better.
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